We were there in Nov last year, just before the high season kicked in, and I can't say I've ever seen a higher concentration of katoeys anywhere. Possible exceptions could be a katoey 'beauty' pagents... but having never been to one I couldn't be certain. As to your second point, it's pretty much all true. Makes me curious which one(s) you keep going back for. The garbage, especially on the east side of the island, was awful. And the place is under perpetual construction. It must have been a great outpost 5 years ago.